Where the paani in the puri is mineral water

The New York TimesSomini Sengupta has weighed in on the street food in Delhi. “As incomes rise and ways of eating change, the inevitable has happened. Street food, that emblem of raucous, messy, urban India, is slowly being tamed. It has come indoors, got sterilised, gone upmarket.

The algae-green-colored tamarind juice that is the vital fluid of the type of chaat called pani puri, and that looks exactly like the sort of the thing you should not ingest, is now prepared with mineral water—and advertised as such at some of Delhi’s oldest chaat establishments.

The pani puri, also known as the gol gappa, or phoochka, depending on which part of the country you’re in, is a deep-fried hollow shell that is deftly punctured by the chef’s thumb, stuffed with boiled potato, dunked in the aforementioned green juice, and ferried from the hand that makes to the hand that eats. That intimate public exchange is as central to its pleasure as the hot-sour explosion on the palate.

Read the full article: Delhi snacks move up from the street

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